"This is the third time that we have arranged a holiday through Wildlife Worlwide, because their advice on the itinerary has been impeccable, and the implementation faultless.
Our first trip (for 2 of us) was to Guatemala and Belize, then four of us went to South Africa, and this year we had a party of six people.
We flew overnight (Air India) to Delhi, and arrived, tired and disheveled, at our B&B Saubagh, where we were met by our hostess Meera Dass. She noticed our condition and very kindly made us a complimentary lunch. Our group had a suite (on two floors) of three double bedrooms and two sitting rooms, we also had access to the rest of the house including the family sitting room and the dining room. Meera booked us into a super locals’ restaurant for dinner (very reasonably priced), and arranged two cars to take us and collect us.
The next day we had a tour of Old and New Delhi, and we met our mini-bus driver (Dev Kumar) for the first time. Meera suggested that as the sight-seeing was quite tiring, she would arrange a typical Indian meal for us when we returned (ETA about 6pm).
We had a really knowledgeable Guide who gave us a lot of detailed information, and answered our many questions, about the Mughal Red Fort, the bustling bazaar of Chandni Chowk (on bicycle ‘rickshaws’), the graceful Humanyun’s Tomb (inspiration for the later Taj Mahal), the modern Parliament buildings, India Gate War Memorial, and finally the ancient and mysterious Qutab Tower (built in 1199), which is part of the fusion of the Hindu Religion and the new (at that time) Mughal Muslim architecture. We were so involved with the history and the magnificent architecture that we did not get back to Saubagh until 7.15 pm (later than any previous guests!!), but it still gave us time to shower before a magnificent meal. (We are still in touch with Meera and have received some of her recipes via email).
The next day we were off to Jaipur (the ‘Pink City’), which I think was our favourite ‘metropolis’ destination. For the next week we were to be driven around by Dev Kumar, who had already impressed us with careful but positive driving through the mad-cap traffic of Delhi. He was unfailingly considerate and helpful (despite his some-what limited English), and coped magnificently beyond the call of duty.
In Jaipur we stayed in the aristocratic Samode Haveli (a former Indian Prince’s Mansion). Our senses were almost overloaded by the colour, the sights, the sounds, the scents, and the bustle of Jaipur. The high-light of the city is probably the fortified palace of the Amber Fort, covering an enormous area, and holding many buildings of opulent and dramatic Mughal architecture. But we were enchanted by the awesome design of the Palace of the Winds (Hawa Mahal), and the City Palace (still occupied by the current Maharaja) and its interesting museum of former lifestyles at the palace. Our biggest surprise was the Jantar Mantar Observatory, which holds the largest sun-dial in the world (accurate to two seconds!), and other intricate astrological instruments measuring the movements of the planets and the stars. A novel and fascinating place.
After a very good dinner at the Samode Haveli, which we had just finished when we engulfed in the most dramatic thunder storm for an hour (the only rain we saw on the whole trip), and a comfortable night’s sleep, our driver took us to Agra (via the uninhabited city/ fort of Fatehpur Sikri).
Agra is of course world famous for the Taj Mahal, and we were delighted to find that the beauty and setting of the Taj far exceeded expectation. We had two trips there, one at dusk and then at dawn the next day. Photographic opportunities abounded, and we all got through a lot of (digital) ‘film’.
The romantic story behind the Taj Mahal would not be complete without a visit to the Agra Fort which was the magnificent home (and subsequently prison) to the Mughal Emperor Shah Jehan, who commissioned the building of the Taj, and is now buried there with his Queen Mumtaz Mahal, who died at the age of 39 giving birth to their fourteenth child. We also visited the tomb of one of Shah Jehan’s ministers, known as the ‘Baby Taj’ or Akbar’s Tomb.
The next morning our driver took us to Chambal Safari Lodge. The three hour journey was enhanced by the beautiful green countryside, where the main crops were ‘mustard’ (we were told, but it looked like oil seed rape), sugar cane, and potatoes. There were some large estates, but many well cared for family farms and colourful villages along the way.
Chambal Safari Lodge itself is very rural, and set in open woodland surrounded by farms.
There is a very pretty central lodge covered in bougainvillea, which contains the dining room, and the accommodation lodges are set in their own space throughout the woodland.
The camp is the comfortable side of basic, and very eco-friendly. The staff are untiringly helpful. Our first afternoon we were taken on a bird sighting tour locally, and in the evening we drank ‘Kingfisher’ beer around a campfire before going into dinner.
The next day we went on a boat trip on the Chambal River, and our very knowledgeable guide pointed out over 120 different species of birds, Marsh or Mugger Crocodiles, and the uniquely snouted, fish eating, Gharial Crocodile. For wildlife enthusiasts, like us, this was an experience not to be missed.
The following day we were due for an overnight train journey to Jabalpur. Our driver took us back to Agra, where he first drove us to a pleasant hotel to relax with coffee and cakes beside their pool, before being supplied with a ‘packed dinner’ to enjoy on the train. At Agra station we said farewell to Dev Kumar and his assistant, before entering the hustle and bustle of the terminus. This was an exceptional “Indian Experience”. The railway system is central to Indian life, and reputed to be the biggest employer in the world.
At Jabalpur we were collected by two comfortable saloon cars, and after a quick breakfast at a local hotel, we were driven to Shergarh tented camp in Kanha National Wildlife Reserve. On our arrival we were met by the manageress, Mizbah. It transpired that nothing was too much trouble for this endlessly cheerful lady, who was always on hand to greet us or offer assistance. This is a very sophisticated operation. Attention to detail is everything. The ‘tents’ are well appointed, the showers hot, the food plentiful and very tasty. Our Guide for the three days, a Nepalese called Raj, knew his wildlife, how to read their tracks, and interpret their behavior.
We enjoyed two safaris a day, and were lucky enough to see: Spotted, Swamp, Barking (Muntjac) and Sambar Deer, along with Wild Boar, Gaur (Indian Bison), Langur Monkeys, Jungle Cat, and (eventually) a close encounter with a Tiger – not to mention dozens of species of ‘new’ birds.
Our thanks must go to Katie and her husband, who own Shergarh. They controlled everything quietly and efficiently. Our penultimate night was Valentine’s Day. We had our usual drinks round the camp fire, but noticed that the dining room had not been laid up. We were led down a path, lit by night-lights on both sides, to a long candle lit table dressed with a fine table cloth and flowers, and all the guests enjoyed a sumptuous meal in the most romantic of settings. One of the high-lights of our holiday!!
Our next stop, after a six hour car journey, was to Tree House Hideaway in Bandhavgarh National Park. This is a truly rustic experience. Five individual ‘houses’ are perched, on stilts, 15 feet up in Mahua trees. Each house is made of wood, with a thatched roof. Accommodation is basic, but comfortable (the showers were hot), and we were situated in forest so close to the reserve that we could hear a tiger roaring one night!
The Park is much smaller than Kanha, but very beautiful, more open in aspect and wonderfully hilly. Our Guide, Anan, was also from Nepal and very knowledgeable about the wildlife. The species are very similar to those in Kanha (but no Marsh Deer), and our only ‘new’ mammal sighting was the large Ruddy Mongoose (as well as the Grey), and we saw a lot of additional birds. Anan, and a park ranger, worked hard to find us a tiger, but without success (except for a distant sighting). Then on our very last drive, he heard of a tiger that had been sited near a stream. Anan guessed that this tiger would follow a track down the stream, so we waited, and within 20 minutes we were rewarded. The tiger passed close by us, and Anan used his experience to track it (on and off) for nearly two hours – giving us plenty of opportunity for great photographs. So ended an absolutely brilliant holiday.
Tree House Hideaway is nowhere near as ‘polished’ as Shergarh, and there were a few minor ‘hiccups’, but the staff are very willing. We paid our bill the night before we left, because we had to be up at 3am to catch a flight in Jabalpur back to Delhi. We made our farewells to the staff, but the manageress and two staff were up that early to see us off (and provide us with a packed breakfast!!) Such dedication can only be admired.
Our final word of thanks must go to the ground handlers who were responsible for our itinerary in India. Everything worked like clockwork. Someone was there to meet us at every connection. The accommodation was always ready for us and of the highest standard, as were the Guides who provided us with so much information at each stop (and with such enthusiasm and pride for their country’s history). The M.D even phoned us at Bandhavgarh for a progress report."
Tony A. February 2011.
