"The trip was absolutely fantastic. Everything went according to plan. Françoise from your agents in Windhoek came to the hotel on the evening after our arrival with a detailed itinerary and map. The vehicle had the luxury of 2 fuel tanks, and so the distance between filling stations was not a problem. The standard of accommodation was excellent - and rather higher than what I am used to! Meals were also first-class, and the ready availability of Windhoek beer and South African wines was a real bonus.We found that many people were travelling clockwise - Windhoek, Sossusvlei, Swakopmund, Etosha etc. However, it was interesting to travel as we did. Waterberg was fascinating and I am so glad we included it - lots of birds, and we saw sable antelope as well as Black Rhino, Eland and Giraffe. I also met some friends from Winchester on the mountain viewpoint above the camp! Spending at least 2 nights at each stop was ideal. Even though the driving was not too arduous, we could rely on a clear day without driving ourselves to do whatever the camps offered, and at relative leisure. We "did" Etosha pretty thoroughly, but only saw one lion and no leopards. The compensation was a large herd of elephants drinking at a water-hole, and lots of close, and very handsome, antelope and giraffe, plus hyenas and jackals. And at Ongava, we had 9 white rhino walking slowly to a water-hole at sunset, upsetting a large flock of sandgrouse.
Your recommendation of a longish stay in Damaraland was well justified. Doro Nawas camp was a real highlight - stunning views, very friendly staff, and we saw desert-adapted elephants on our first morning. They were celbrating their third anniversary on the day of our arrival - an excuse for singing and dancing. The night sky, with no moon, was ablaze with stars, and 2 guides got the telescope working, and explained constellations to guests. When we got to Damaraland camp, instead of going out to see the elephants again, we had our own special trip into the wild. Animals were not used to vehicles, it seemed, and started to run when we appeared (unlike Etosha). The scenery was just so beautiful, and the silence overwhelming.
It was, as you warned, a long drive down the Skeleton Coast, but I am glad to have done it, and experienced just how much "nothing" there is - and how the cool currents affect the weather. After totally blue skies up to then, we encountered mist and a drop in temperature.
Swakopmund is a strange urban island - with plenty of evidence of German culture. Our birding guide was enthusiastic, though I suspect we were not there at the best time to see birds - many return for the Namibian summer.
We had a first-rate guide at Sossusvlei, and a long trip to the dunes and the Sesriem gorge - and our first meeting with a mass influx of tourists. Serra Cafema was the real icing on the cake. To see the river, and hear the water tumbling over the rapids after all that arid landscape was amazing, and of course there were different birds - and crocodiles. It just might be a mistake to go to Serra Cafema at the start of a trip - it is an ideal place to be treated as a real bonus at the end of a holiday, relaxing with boat trips, walks etc. I gather that the water level was gradually dropping, and we were very lucky to be able to get well up-river - in a couple of weeks, boat trips may well not be possible.
So - a wonderful experience. Namibia is a fantastic destination, and independent travel there quite easy, provided you have done a little preparation and research."
Mr Lunt, Winchester, August 2008
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