"Darkness came early on March 13th. A layer of leaden clouds descended over Maun Airport like a giant threatening duvet. The pilot of the four seater Cessna flew at a low altitude, changing direction to navigate around the rain. I arrived at the airstrip only to be greeted by an almighty thunderclap from the dark velvet sky.
I have travelled to Botswana several times before, but always in October, when the sky is a flawless azure blue, and the sun is scorchingly unforgiving. Animals are desperate for water. and competition at water holes is fierce. By mid morning they are seeking shade. A dusty arid landscape.
My camp in March is beside the now flowing Savute Channel. All about me is verdant, vibrant flora. Emerald and lime trees surround glorious grassland, dotted with an abundance of wild flowers. What a contrast with October! Now the animals seem very contented. Cheetah spots more defined. Hyena coats thick and lustrous. October in Savute resembles a different planet, for the Mopane trees are stripped bare by elephants, and black ghostly trunks and branches litter the white parched terrain. A scene of desperation and desolation, with a paucity of water, but perfect for game viewing. Elephants search longingly for water, travelling many kilometres every day.
In March, game is still about, but it takes clever guiding and intense detective work to track animals. Elephants suddenly appear through thickets. The virgin butterfly shaped leaves of the Mopane glow with a rosy hue. At dawn, tall golden grasses appear white with dew, water droplets suspended, reflecting the sunrise. Carmine Bee-eaters swoop beside the vehicle, catching insects, and butterflies abound, enjoying the colourful flower selection. It has not rained for two days, but the sky is adorned with fluffy clouds.
The Duba Plain in March is like a green fire blasting through swamps. A thousand ebony coated buffalo cross the marsh fleeing from the Tsaro lion pride, hastening to the bush, where heavily leaved branches form dark tunnels. Giraffe graze contentedly on the Acacia now, but soon their supply will be scarce in the rolling savannah of Duba. The seasonal deep water affords me a wonderful view of lions and cubs swimming through a metre deep channel.
The area around Mombo Camp now resembles a gigantic shallow lake, here and there interspersed with lily filled lagoons, like a scene from a Monet painting. Suddenly, another storm descends, sending the fauna for cover. However, it is brief, and the Monitor lizards appear again to soak up the sun.
October in Botswana is amazing, but it is so, so dry. In March the senses are bombarded by the aroma of the bush, and allured by the scent of wild sage and basil. An ornamental allotment where the wildlife feast on a market garden of vegetation. On the horizon, distant trees are etched black silhouettes. Dusk leaches colours from the sky. Mauve, cobalt, grey, and then black. Stars gradually emerge. Goodnight Botswana."
Annette & Andrew B. April 2011.
I have travelled to Botswana several times before, but always in October, when the sky is a flawless azure blue, and the sun is scorchingly unforgiving. Animals are desperate for water. and competition at water holes is fierce. By mid morning they are seeking shade. A dusty arid landscape.
My camp in March is beside the now flowing Savute Channel. All about me is verdant, vibrant flora. Emerald and lime trees surround glorious grassland, dotted with an abundance of wild flowers. What a contrast with October! Now the animals seem very contented. Cheetah spots more defined. Hyena coats thick and lustrous. October in Savute resembles a different planet, for the Mopane trees are stripped bare by elephants, and black ghostly trunks and branches litter the white parched terrain. A scene of desperation and desolation, with a paucity of water, but perfect for game viewing. Elephants search longingly for water, travelling many kilometres every day.
In March, game is still about, but it takes clever guiding and intense detective work to track animals. Elephants suddenly appear through thickets. The virgin butterfly shaped leaves of the Mopane glow with a rosy hue. At dawn, tall golden grasses appear white with dew, water droplets suspended, reflecting the sunrise. Carmine Bee-eaters swoop beside the vehicle, catching insects, and butterflies abound, enjoying the colourful flower selection. It has not rained for two days, but the sky is adorned with fluffy clouds.
The Duba Plain in March is like a green fire blasting through swamps. A thousand ebony coated buffalo cross the marsh fleeing from the Tsaro lion pride, hastening to the bush, where heavily leaved branches form dark tunnels. Giraffe graze contentedly on the Acacia now, but soon their supply will be scarce in the rolling savannah of Duba. The seasonal deep water affords me a wonderful view of lions and cubs swimming through a metre deep channel.
The area around Mombo Camp now resembles a gigantic shallow lake, here and there interspersed with lily filled lagoons, like a scene from a Monet painting. Suddenly, another storm descends, sending the fauna for cover. However, it is brief, and the Monitor lizards appear again to soak up the sun.
October in Botswana is amazing, but it is so, so dry. In March the senses are bombarded by the aroma of the bush, and allured by the scent of wild sage and basil. An ornamental allotment where the wildlife feast on a market garden of vegetation. On the horizon, distant trees are etched black silhouettes. Dusk leaches colours from the sky. Mauve, cobalt, grey, and then black. Stars gradually emerge. Goodnight Botswana."
Annette & Andrew B. April 2011.
No comments:
Post a Comment