Monday, June 22, 2009

Customer Review - Annmarie Meredith - Botswana

Just to let you know that our March 09 trip to the Okavango Delta, Botswana was a wonderful experience with memories that will stay with us forever - and if not, my 3,000 photographs will take care of that! The main highlights for us were to see the lion kill at Duba Plains, the leopard kill (OK it was a dove, but still) and the wild dog kill at Chitabe Lediba.

We kicked off at the remote Duba Plains camp, and saw an abundance of wildlife with our private guide Reuben. On the second morning we observed the lions of the Tsaro Pride resting in the shade of the acacia bushes and closely monitoring a herd of buffalo. Within 10 minutes, five lionesses (including the infamous Silver Eye) had spotted an opportunity on hearing the plaintive cry of a sick calf left behind at the rear of the herd. They looked at each other and seemed to communicate their strategy. With their necks outstretched, mouths watering, their gaze in the distance, they raced off and we followed at great speed. Not knowing what to expect, it was quite a thrill, and we had to hold on tight as the Land Rover followed at the same pace. My heart was racing as I saw other lions joining the hunt. We crossed through a deep channel - not a problem for these strong swimming lions. One lioness hunted the calf and the others prepared to attack its mother who had returned to protect it.

What an adrenaline rush to witness this sequence of events at such close range. These lions were hungry, and according to our guide, hadn't eaten for 18 days, so it didn't take them long to cripple the buffalo. Once the buffalo was down, the male lion appeared on the scene and settled in by the hindquarters for his long awaited breakfast. What followed was a veritable feeding frenzy by eight growling lions and the last remaining cub from this pride, interspersed with the occasional pause to drink from the nearby channel.

We left them to it but returned at sunset and saw them still at the scene of the crime, and clearly not leaving much for the vultures and hyenas. The game was poor at our second camp, Kwetsani, due to the higher than expected water levels and fortunately we were able to transfer to another camp. I was very keen to see wild dog and leopard and our guide suggested Chitabe Lediba. Nothing was a problem for our hosts and Wilderness Safaris helped us charter a flight. We were met at the airstrip by Newman Chuma who would be our private guide for the next 3 days. That afternoon we set off with Newman in search of leopard. Within 2 hours or so we found ourselves in a dry, low wooded area and our guide listened and watched for signs. He stopped the vehicle when he heard a flock of noisy and agitated francolins in a nearby tree, then drove off through the long grass and soon spotted a leopard sleeping under a tree. It was a female, about 6 years old, and so beautiful. An awesome sight. Our guide made a scratching noise which caused the leopard to sit bolt upright, slowly look around, and make eye contact with us. Poised and ready with my camera on continuous shoot mode, my shutter release sounded like grateful applause. The leopard then fixed its gaze on something a few metres away, and we were treated to a display of a stealthy stalk-and-pounce. Its prey was a collared dove feeding in the long grass. She played with it rather like a domestic cat with a mouse. We watched her strip the feathers, then eat it but not without a fight, lick her lips, clean the feathers from her whiskers and walk off through the woods. What a promising start!

After that we spotted wildebeest, giraffe, elephant and black back jackal, all very special, but my heart was still pounding from the leopard experience. With the sun sinking fast we headed off to find a safe spot for our sundowner. We parked up by some trees with an open area ahead of us and hopped out to stretch our legs. I swapped over to my macro lens to photograph some colourful wild flowers whilst Newman prepared our G&Ts. Newman heard something - it was an impala running at speed towards the trees on the far side, but what was it running from? An African wild dog no less.

We looked at each other in disbelief. Newman asked us what we wanted to do? No brainer, let's follow the wild dog. In a mad rush we abandoned the cool box, drinks and nibbles, and sped off after the wild dog. Bouncing around in the back I swapped my lenses over in record time. The dog was joined by another one and we raced after them. They stopped to drink at a pool of water, but didn't stop for long, they were very excited about something. We followed and saw them join up with 6 other dogs all running straight ahead of us. Newman made the call of a wild dog in distress which caused them to stop and look around at us - nice photo opportunity! They continued and we followed them into the woods where we found them all huddled around a freshly killed impala. The noises and the smell were remarkable. These eight dogs were hungrily gnawing away at the kill, barking, growling, moaning. I snapped away with my camera but with the combination of the adrenalin and the low light found it difficult to get good shots, however I can't complain. What beautiful animals they are with their yellowish brown, black and white coat, white tipped tail, black muzzle and huge oval black ears.

Within ten minutes there was nothing left but bones; two black back jackals were waiting for their chance, also the vultures, including white headed, white backed, hooded and leopard faced. All this in one afternoon - how amazinlgy lucky we were, and what a great guide we had in Newman. Am I glad we changed our plan and came to Chitabe Lediba! We would definitely recommend this lodge. The wildlife is prolific, the accommodation is adequate, and I believe is due for a refurbishment shortly and its sister camp, Chitabe, was undergoing a refurbishment while we were there. I hope it's not too long before my next African adventure.

Annmarie Meredith

http://www.annmariemeredithphotography.com/

Wildlife Safaris in Botswana and the Okavango Delta - Click here

Monday, June 8, 2009

Festival of Wildlife 2009 - Tanzania - Staff Report by Mel Kinder

As far as the eye can see....
Nothing can quite prepare you for the expanse of the Serengeti plains. Driving to our private camp from Arusha in preparation for the 6th Annual Festival of Wildlife was a truly memorable experience for Alison and myself. With numerous bags loaded with Festival auction items, little customer gifts purchased at the Masai market, projector, laptops, a printer, banner and our personal equipment, we headed away from the ever-growing arable suburbs and bustle of the town and west towards the peak of Ngorongoro crater. Having carried out the necessary pre-Festival meetings in Arusha we were being treated to an afternoon game drive in the crater with top guide Ayoub, en route to our camp spot in the central Serengeti. As we climbed towards the rim of the crater the increasingly green landscape turned into what could almost be described as lush rainforest. Ayoub suddenly insisted we close our eyes and then, once instructed a moment later, we were gazing down into what must surely be one of the greatest natural wonders of the world. But where are the flamingos I insisted? I was overwhelmed by the landscape before me but intent on cementing my dream of witnessing the mass of elegant pink birds on the lake.

Soon we had descended the steep sides of the crater and were eye to eye with zebras, hyenas, Wildebeest, warthogs – you name it! But still no sign of pink. This is when you begin to realise just how big the 260 square kilometre crater is. We trundled along and although we had managed to see lions and 4 of the meagre Black Rhino population within an hour, it wasn’t until we neared closer to the soda lake that the blur of pink haze became thousands of individual birds….astounding!
Leaving the hospitable and comfortable Serena lodge bright and early in the morning we headed further west and down into the lowlands towards the Serengeti, passing solitary and regal Masai herders as the dark green turned into varying shades of yellow and brown. This is where the horizon becomes infinite and space unrestrained and this is where we were to host the Festival of Wildlife.

Turner’s Camp was the perfect base from which to witness the Great Wildebeest Migration – the reason for our presence in this location. At the end of the rainy season the ground here provides the perfect larder for the million or so White-bearded Wildebeest and Burchell’s Zebra which have arrived from the east. They did not disappoint. Having flown back with our Festival group into the local Seronera airstrip we were all warmly welcomed with cheery register calls of endless grunts resembling ‘here’, ‘here’, ‘here’, as we passed by the scattered and sometimes bunched brown cattle.

The welcome continued at camp with dancing by the local Wakuria tribe, poachers in a past life but now working with conservation tourism. Everyone was glad to have finally reached their home for the next 5 days.

Festival is always ‘full-on’ and this year was to be no exception. Joined by expert wildlife photographers Mark Carwardine, Suzi Eszterhas and Nick Garbutt, artist Mandy Shepherd and editor of BBC Wildlife magazine Sophie Stafford, not forgetting Selous Save the Rhino project leader Fraser Smith, Jackson Looseyia from Big Cat Live, local Masai and bushcraft expert Ole Kirimbai and Damian Bell from the local Honeyguide Foundation, we had a lot to pack in.

‘Water ready’ came the call in the dark at 5:30 each morning as our superb camp staff miraculously provided about twenty tents with hot water for washing before everyone congregated around a welcome camp fire for hot porridge and tea. Head torches blinding fellow participants, we headed for our designated vehicles in readiness for the mornings viewing. ‘Who heard the lion roar last night?’ exclaimed a voice ‘It was really close!’ In fact much closer than we had realised. At dusk a lioness was spotted a few dozen metres from camp, surveying the territory atop the nearby kopjes.

Festival is all about sharing wildlife knowledge and information flows freely from dawn till dusk as the melee of participants, experts, camp staff and the Wildlife Worldwide team share stories, witness events, listen to presentations and attend workshops in their preferred subjects.


Varying workshops this year included beadwork with the Wakuria ladies, bushcraft with local Masai guru - Ole Kirimbai, birding with Nick Garbutt, painting with Mandy Shepherd and the ever popular photography skills and manipulation. The pace is fast but there is just so much to do and see in the space of the event so a few nodding heads just after lunch are all part and parcel!

Everyone’s back in camp for brunch at 11am and the stories are coming thick and fast – lions in abundance in trees, leopards spotted both in trees and wandering through the thick grass, Wildebeest in their thousands and a solitary python trying to hide unsuccessfully in a termite mound!



Once fed and watered presentations follow, taking in subjects like ‘Last Chance to See’ with Mark Carwardine previewing a couple of antics from the forthcoming series he has been filming with Stephen Fry, ‘Tales and Tragedies from Tiger Land’ by Nick Garbutt about his recent India trip and ‘Life as BBC Wildlife Editor’ by Sophie Stafford.

Workshops and further game drives ensure everyone is kept busy followed by a quick bucket shower before sitting down to the delights created by Leonard the camp chef and stories around the camp fire. Having never visited the Serengeti before, I understand now that May and June are excellent months to visit; before the numbers of visitors really kick in. As a reasonably large group taking 8 vehicles out each morning, we rarely came into contact with more than one or two other vehicles at most stopping to view a similar event. Our local Tanzanian guides were extremely knowledgeable and attentive to the needs of the group. Aware that other vehicles would encounter equally exciting events, they did not jump to grab a radio resulting in situations of vehicle overload, as can so easily happen when wildlife viewing.

There is also another wonderful way of getting a different perspective on the whole area – a balloon ride. Six of us braved the 4:30am wake-up call and headed wearily to the take-off point. Packed like pigeons into racing baskets, with only heads protruding as we sat in our advised astronauts position. Slowly the heat built into the balloon and we were upright again and gazing out towards the rising sun and the magnificent plains. Soon we could see for miles and the rising and falling to turn of the balloon, allowed us unparalleled wildlife sightings as we skimmed vulture nests in acacia trees, saw lion cubs darting into the undergrowth and gazed in awe at the aphid-like mass of black which described the head of a huge Wildebeest herd and the tail stretching for miles behind.
Everywhere the abundance of wildlife is staggering. Big cats lounge nonchalantly in acacia branches, well fed and seemingly unconcerned by the stampeding of nearby hooves. Giraffes in their dozens browse gracefully as they create acacia topiary and hyena and jackals roam freely on the off-chance of a grabbed meal. All this and thousands of Wildebeest on a mission. I couldn’t help but draw an imaginary comparison with the bison roaming on the former plains of the USA and the cartoon by the great cartoonist Gary Larson where he has drawn a traffic report helicopter entitled ‘Herd Report’ circling above a mass of cattle with a bubble from the pilot stating ‘It’s bad out there today folks....Noses to derrières as far as I can see.
Of course we can never take these incredible spectacles for granted, and the Festival ethos is one of conservation and learning to highlight issues and promote discussion regarding solutions. We always try to raise as much money as possible for different conservation groups in whichever destination we happen to be. This year we are raising money for Save the Rhino International, The David Shepherd Wildlife Foundation and the Honeyguide Foundation. Even in this year of cutbacks and credit crunch, people realise the importance of wildlife conservation and we are proud to have raised £5,135 during this Festival trip alone. The Serengeti is a vast and unique wildlife reserve without boundaries which is constantly under treat from land usage, poachers, climate changes and more. Let’s try and ensure that its fate is not sealed as below……


If you would like to find out about next year’s Festival trip to the Pantanal in Brazil then please click here.


Festival of Wildlife Customer Testimonials - Tanzania

"Alison, Mel,

A BIG thanks to both of you for an excellent festival. Paul and I had a great time. Everything was just FAB. We really liked the experts, loved the game drives, everyone at the camp site was great, and every moment of the day there was lots of fun. OK the bucket showers took a bit of working out – 20 litres sounded lots but on the first day I hadn’t even got through the wash cycle so had to have 2 buckets - got the hang of it however as time moved on.
"

Jackie Bench

"Dear Chris, Alison and Mel
Now sleeping fairly normally again after the most excellent week in the Serengeti, I should like to thank you all for your enormous hard work and really perfect organisation. Although I am an experienced 'safari-goer' and traveller, I had never imagined what your festival was going to offer, with all the expertise by most pleasant and helpful people and the tremendous attention to detail in all respects. For me, it turned out to be a considerable success, and I am very glad now that I was able to join you. I also found the camp organisation really first-class - and the charging facility on the vehicles was particularly brilliant (and saved me from disaster!)."

Morley Pecker

"Dear Chris, Alison and Mel,
Once again, it was a super enjoyable Festival – all the staff at the camp treated us superbly, food was excellent and tents spacious. The site was relaxing and well laid out and it was nice to see old friends again.
I was fascinated by the plains covered with swirling wildebeest as far as the eye could see, almost sounding like a motorway in the places where there were milling around, and of course the zebras with them were as sweet as ever. I loved seeing so many stately giraffes, pretty coloured birds large and small. The hippo pool was a beautiful place even without hippos, but it was fun to see and hear so many.
The most amazing thing for me was to see the lions in trees (and so many not) – no more will I think to climb a tree if in danger of a lion!! It was great to see the leopards, cheetahs, buffalo etc. and finally the elephants.
I enjoyed all the talks/experiences of the celebs and as usual enjoyed painting with Mandy, always so enthusiastic about everything.
Many thanks to you all for all you did to make this a very happy celebration of wildlife."


Diana Garfitt

Festival of Wildlife in Brazil 2010 - Click here

Sunday, June 7, 2009

Festival of Wildife 2009 - Customer Comments - Ballooning!

"The balloon flight was one of the highlights of the Festival for me. I never realised how much wildlife can be seen from a balloon and how much the pilots can manoeuvre the balloon in order to get closer to the animals. Giraffe, buffalo, hippo, wildebeest, a hyena, a cheetah and even a serval and I lost count of the number of lions we saw! "

Charles Kinsey, Festival of Wildlife 2009






Friday, June 5, 2009

World Wildlife Fund news - protecting sub-Antarctica

The South African government has announced it will create a vast protected area around the remote Prince Edward Islands in the Southern Ocean – and WWF is taking a lead in providing technical and management advice.
At 180,000km2, the Prince Edward Islands region will become one of the biggest Marine Protected Areas in the world. It’s an environmental achievement of global importance, which will help protect a suite of spectacular wildlife. WWF’s director general, Jim Leape, says: "South Africa has made a globally significant commitment to our oceans."South Africa plays a key role – along with countries such as Australia, France, UK and New Zealand – in protecting the amazing biodiversity and commercially important fisheries of the sub-Antarctic."

Located almost 2000km south of Cape Town, in the Southern Ocean, the islands are home to:
• 450,000 King penguins (and two other penguin species)

• 33% of the world’s sub-Antarctic Fur Seals (and two other types of seal)
• 44% of all Wandering Albatrosses (and four more kinds of albatross)
• 14 species of petrel

The islands have been threatened by illegal and irresponsible fishing practices in the past – for instance vessels targeting Patagonian toothfish have often killed albatross as bycatch.

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Newsflash: Madagascar Visas

Please be aware that the Embassy of Madagascar in London has announced that tourist visas will be issued free of charge for the foreseeable future.

This is not an official change and it is likely to be withdrawn without prior notice.

Monday, May 11, 2009

Customer Reviews: Mr Wood in Belize

REPORT ON VISIT TO BELIZE, April 2009

It always seems extraordinary to me how difficult it can be to travel from one country to another in a region, even to neighbouring countries. As you grow older time seems to accelerate exponentially; this is an illusion of course but for older folk time relates more to what is left than what is past. Now we know we can only travel to other continents for a relatively short number of years, we are inclined to twin or triplet the countries we visit.

This year we were returning to Venezuela and wished to marry it to a wildlife experience in another nearby country in Latin America. Guyana looked like a good choice for the Kaieteur Falls, the possibility of jaguar at Iwokrama and giant otter on the Rupununi River. But there are no direct flights between these immediate neighbours and travel by road would have taken us away from our dogs for too long. Combining Venezuela and Guyana involves using Trinidad as a staging post. To get the best air fares, the trip demands 4 local flights to and from the island. Maybe next time the call of steel bands will be enough to seduce us.

We turned instead to Belize, a lot like a Caribbean ‘island’ except it is landlocked. Getting to this charming country from Venezuela, and then home, is even more complicated than combining Venezuela and Guyana. It involved a flight from Caracas via Panama City into San Salvador for an overnight stop, before a further two flights to take us to the lodge at Gallon Jug in Belize; with two flights via San Salvador to Guatemala and a flight home from there, exiting the plane at Panama City, changing in Madrid for London. Exhausting, yes, and not recommended. The first time we went to Belize we flew direct to Cancun in Mexico and took a simple, easy and interesting road transfer from there.

The lure in Belize was the real possibility of an encounter with puma, jaguar and ocelot at Chan Chich, a terrific lodge located in the heart of 125, 000 acres, most of which is tropical forest. The small plane journey was a dream. We were whisked by our pilot through Godson International Airport, Belize City, like VIPs, and flown in to Gallon Jug, 2000 ft over jungle as dense as a forest of broccoli. Effects of the two day transfer started to fade with the onset of delicious anticipation in searches and sightings to come.

We had our first night drive that very evening, not wholly productive as heat and travel were taking their toll. We relied entirely on Luiz, our driver, for spotting and to awaken us if we nodded off. During the following seven days we fell into a routine of rising at four thirty to catch the dawn on our morning drives and departing two hours before sunset for pre-dinner drives. On two of the days we varied the routine so that we could stay out longer, taking a breakfast picnic on the escarpment one morning and a picnic dinner by Laguna Seca one evening. In between drives, we walked the nine trails that surround the lodge.

There were lots of howler monkeys roaring to get us up before dawn and, each evening, an entertaining troupe of spider monkeys swung in near the lodge to take up residence for the night. As we travelled, we marvelled at the display and colours of the ocellated turkey, every bit as impressive in its shimmering, many coloured feathers as a peacock. Apparently these large birds have been ‘disappeared’ in most places outside Gallon Jug because they make such good eating.

Gallon Jug provides a variety of habitats and some great places to observe birds and butterflies, not forgetting frogs and crocodiles. Our quest was centred on the big cats; we had to rely on them to make an appearance in the open areas as the jungle is so dense, a jaguar would be lost to sight a few metres into it. The road and trail systems together with the 3000 acre clear area around Gallon Jug village and farm, offers the best possibility of a sighting. On our first day, one member of staff saw a puma on the Logger’s Trail within a kilometre of Chan Chich lodge. On day three there were two puma sightings by the lodge manager and, on day four, a jaguar was seen at 200 ft. crossing the road, apparently on its way to slack it thirst in Laguna Seca.

Next morning, an hour after we had driven our golf cart to Sylvester Village, there was a close encounter there with a large puma by staff man, Jorge, who came back to lodge with a photo in his camera. That night we staked out a spot where the farm had laid a dead calf to be naturally re-cycled by vultures and, we hoped, the big cats. No luck there, so we headed off to Laguna Seca keeping our eyes peeled as it grew dark so suddenly. On our way back from the lagoon, I was picking out the eyes of deer and cattle with the spotlight, when I lighted up something that was too low down to be either: the green eyes reflecting back at me were only two or three feet off the ground on a hill in a large field fenced off for the cattle.

We moved right next to the fence and continued to stare through the binoculars until we could be sure the colour, shape and size meant we were looking at a puma. It was 80 metres away but identifiable in the spotlight, although out of camera range. We squeezed through the barbed wire and tried to get a better view but it shrank away over the hill and out of sight. We drove down an adjacent road still trying to catch it in the light. As we cast about, our guide saw a different pair of green eyes lurking in a mango orchard on the opposite side of the road to the first sighting, this time about 120 metres away. We saw the eyes and a faint suggestion of a body as it moved along the base of the trees but we could get no closer. So we had two distant, night sightings to go down in the book, our first ever of puma, and therefore a special thrill.

The Chan Chich Lodge at Gallon Jug is situated in an old Mayan site. Both the main lodge and the cabanas are beautifully appointed: our bathroom alone was 15 sq metres, with his and her showers and washbasins. The forty odd staff come from about 6 families who live nearby in service areas or the village. Most of them have grown up in Gallon Jug or worked there for years, all part of a Chan Chich community which gives the place a very special feeling. There is a school, where almost 80 of the community’s children are taught, located near the airstrip and farm, along with a shop and post-office.

There are lots of activities both on and off the Chan Chich reserve, which itself borders two other large areas of forest, including the 260, 000 acre Rio Bravo Nature Reserve. You can visit the impressive Mayan ruins at Lamanai or trip next door to seek out the wildlife. We had more than enough within the reserve to keep us fully engaged, with visits to the Jacuzzi, swimming pool and massage parlour to help recover from all those drives and walks. You can also hire a golf cart (make sure its battery is fully charged!), go bike riding or take a canoe out on Laguna Verde, another pretty lake on the property. All of which makes Chan Chich a great place to visit.
"Female collared peccary"
"Peccary and 'Peclet' "
"Bigger than my hand, Tarantula"
"Ocelot, Hato Pinero"
"Is it a Space-ship orbiting the moon?"
Alan Cantrell Wood, April 2009