The last time I visited Namibia was eight years ago so I was looking forward to returning to this dry and austere part of Africa. When I departed Windhoek two weeks later, I had completely fallen for this beautiful scenic country.
My journey began in the south, in Sossusvlei where the red dunes dominate the landscape. Staying at Sossusvlei Wilderness Lodge my large picture windows allowed the scenery to be an extension to my room.
An early start is required to visit the dunes, before the sun begins to really turn up the heat. By seven o’clock I was climbing ‘Big Daddy’ – in a moment of madness I had decided, when given the choice, to climb the highest dune in the area!! But the view from the top was quite spectacular and well worth the effort. We descended via Dead Vlei, an eerie graveyard for expired trees.
A couple of days spent at Wolwedans on the edge of the NamibRand Nature Reserve was an opportunity to appreciate one stunning scene after another. Every which way I looked was a view so breathtaking that it was just impossible to capture the scene in a photograph. The vast openness, occasionally punctuated by a hansom Oryx was simply one of the most incredible places I have ever seen. In this crowded world it was refreshing to be enveloped by both space and silence.
After an overnight in Windhoek and a delicious dinner in NICE, I headed north west past the Zebra Mountains and Namibia’s highest peak, Brandberg Mountain, to Palmvag Lodge where the Save the Rhino team is located. Chances of seeing Black Rhino in the Damaraland area is extremely high.
From this point we headed well off the beaten track and down the dry Uniab Riverbed where our progress was periodically halted by desert Elephants who were enjoying a bumper crop of seed pods lying under trees. Our destination was Hoanib River Camp, a remote camp in an amazingly scenic location. Around the fire that evening we stared into the wonderful canopy of stars which seemed so bright and so close, untouched by light pollution.
The following morning saw us climb gradually up a valley of golden grass and then down the other side towards the Hoarusib River, the scenery constantly changing but never dull. We never saw another vehicle or person and in these vast scenes we were just a speck on the landscape.
Further on we drove along a meandering riverbed, a permanent source of water, and saw several elephants who are attracted to this very green and fertile area. Lions are also an occasional visitor. That night we camped at Purros on the banks of the dry riverbed and enjoyed dinner al fresco before a light shower fell that night. The next morning the sky was clear so we set off along prairie style landscapes then through mountains before reaching Sesfontein where we camped on the high banks above the river. By late afternoon dark clouds were gathering and finally we were treated to the most amazing electrical thunderstorm from our dry location. When we woke the next morning the river had risen and our intended 40 km route along the river bed had to be abandoned for the longer 280 km route via the road!
We had only just set up camp at Hobatere, west of Etosha when another huge thunder storm struck. This was very unusual weather for this time of year; the previous December had seen the wildlife in the area desperate for food and water. The following morning, which was our last, we packed away wet camping gear while a beautiful rainbow appeared as a colourful conclusion to our amazing trip!
Namibia is unique; it’s unlike any other Southern African country. If you are a frequent traveller to Africa and have not yet visited Namibia, I urge you to go soon. This is such a beautiful country where the wildlife is unusual, the lodges are exceptional and the scenery is utterly breathtaking. I for one will not be waiting another eight years before I return.
My journey began in the south, in Sossusvlei where the red dunes dominate the landscape. Staying at Sossusvlei Wilderness Lodge my large picture windows allowed the scenery to be an extension to my room.
An early start is required to visit the dunes, before the sun begins to really turn up the heat. By seven o’clock I was climbing ‘Big Daddy’ – in a moment of madness I had decided, when given the choice, to climb the highest dune in the area!! But the view from the top was quite spectacular and well worth the effort. We descended via Dead Vlei, an eerie graveyard for expired trees.
A couple of days spent at Wolwedans on the edge of the NamibRand Nature Reserve was an opportunity to appreciate one stunning scene after another. Every which way I looked was a view so breathtaking that it was just impossible to capture the scene in a photograph. The vast openness, occasionally punctuated by a hansom Oryx was simply one of the most incredible places I have ever seen. In this crowded world it was refreshing to be enveloped by both space and silence.
After an overnight in Windhoek and a delicious dinner in NICE, I headed north west past the Zebra Mountains and Namibia’s highest peak, Brandberg Mountain, to Palmvag Lodge where the Save the Rhino team is located. Chances of seeing Black Rhino in the Damaraland area is extremely high.
From this point we headed well off the beaten track and down the dry Uniab Riverbed where our progress was periodically halted by desert Elephants who were enjoying a bumper crop of seed pods lying under trees. Our destination was Hoanib River Camp, a remote camp in an amazingly scenic location. Around the fire that evening we stared into the wonderful canopy of stars which seemed so bright and so close, untouched by light pollution.
The following morning saw us climb gradually up a valley of golden grass and then down the other side towards the Hoarusib River, the scenery constantly changing but never dull. We never saw another vehicle or person and in these vast scenes we were just a speck on the landscape.
Further on we drove along a meandering riverbed, a permanent source of water, and saw several elephants who are attracted to this very green and fertile area. Lions are also an occasional visitor. That night we camped at Purros on the banks of the dry riverbed and enjoyed dinner al fresco before a light shower fell that night. The next morning the sky was clear so we set off along prairie style landscapes then through mountains before reaching Sesfontein where we camped on the high banks above the river. By late afternoon dark clouds were gathering and finally we were treated to the most amazing electrical thunderstorm from our dry location. When we woke the next morning the river had risen and our intended 40 km route along the river bed had to be abandoned for the longer 280 km route via the road!
We had only just set up camp at Hobatere, west of Etosha when another huge thunder storm struck. This was very unusual weather for this time of year; the previous December had seen the wildlife in the area desperate for food and water. The following morning, which was our last, we packed away wet camping gear while a beautiful rainbow appeared as a colourful conclusion to our amazing trip!Namibia is unique; it’s unlike any other Southern African country. If you are a frequent traveller to Africa and have not yet visited Namibia, I urge you to go soon. This is such a beautiful country where the wildlife is unusual, the lodges are exceptional and the scenery is utterly breathtaking. I for one will not be waiting another eight years before I return.
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